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He reached repeatedly into a pot on a portable stove to paint rows of the word “OH,” a motif Osakwe has often used.

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I never really cared for dangling phalluses.” Her clothes wrestle with ideas of desire, sexual pleasure, and female autonomy; they are sensual and provocative, with cutouts, high slits, and sheer fabrics.

While her designs have often shocked Nigerian audiences, Osakwe is unassuming; she is slight, and usually wears glasses with large black frames, with her hair in skinny braids.

“When we go on about ‘hand-painted, hand-dyed,’ it’s real,” she said. That’s why we stick to the fashion calendar and nothing else.” There are six months between seasons, which gives her time to produce the clothes.

“Fashion shouldn’t be so easily consumed,” she went on. “This is never going to be a machine print—it’s never going to look like one, it’s never going to smell like one.

She speaks in a husky whisper, and often makes eye contact with a point in the distance.

Last modified 16-Jun-2017 08:18